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This resource supports Mountain Training England providers delivering the Rock Climbing Instructor qualification. It provides benchmark descriptions of candidate behaviour we might associate with differing levels of competence.
The following examples should not be considered prescriptive or exhaustive. Examples offer benchmark standards of performance but do not define the only ways to demonstrate them. Given potential misunderstandings the following is intended for providers and course directors, only. Discussion with candidates during delivery is encouraged however.
Syllabus chapters (as found in the candidate handbook) are listed in the collapsible menu below. Expand each chapter to view syllabus competencies, alongside descriptions of the performance standards expected at assessment.
1.1 Select and fit suitable climbing equipment for personal and group use.
Weak
- Selects inappropriate, unsafe or ill-fitting personal and group climbing equipment.
- Cannot recognise inappropriate equipment use by participants.
Min. Standard
- Selects appropriate, safe and well fitting personal and group climbing equipment. Can clearly and logically explain their choices.
- Recognises inappropriate equipment use by participants.
Outstanding
- Selection of climbing equipment for personal and group use is safe and well informed. Can comprehensively explain their choices based on significant knowledge and practical experience.
- Has current knowledge of a wide variety of common climbing equipment applicable to varied participants, climbing activities and environments.
1.2 Demonstrate an ability to evaluate the condition of personal climbing equipment and ensure appropriate use, care and maintenance in line with manufacturer’s guidance.
Weak
- Uses equipment inappropriately or unsafely when completing tasks.
- Is unaware of and/or does not adhere to manufacturer's approved use of equipment when completing tasks.
- Where using equipment on the fringe of manufacturers approved use, is unsafe or cannot adequately explain their reasoning.
- Is unable to recognise worn or damaged equipment. Does not recognise the importance of care and maintenance to ensure equipment is fit for purpose. Is unaware of how best to care for and maintain personal climbing equipment.
Min. Standard
- Uses all equipment appropriately and safely when completing tasks.
- Is aware of and adheres to the manufacturer's approved use of equipment when completing tasks.
- Where using equipment on the fringe of manufacturer's approved use, can adequately explain why their approach is appropriate and safe.
- Recognises worn or damaged equipment. Recognises the importance of care and maintenance to ensure equipment is fit for purpose. Is aware of how to care and maintain personal climbing equipment.
Outstanding
- Has a comprehensive understanding of manufacturer's approved use of equipment and adheres to this when completing tasks. Is aware of how manufacturer's use varied strategies to communicate guidance and how it can be used to inform approach.
- Where there is an element of improvisation can adequately and logically explain why their approach is appropriate and safe.
- Has a deep understanding of care and maintenance strategies to ensure equipment is fit for purpose.
1.3 Demonstrate an ability to evaluate the condition of climbing wall equipment and ensure appropriate use.
Weak
- Gives little consideration the facilities rules when using climbing wall equipment.
- Specialist and/or bespoke climbing wall equipment is not used safely. Guidance to ensure appropriate use is not consulted.
- Unaware of the condition of climbing wall equipment when using facilities.
Min. Standard
- Is aware of the importance of, and adheres to, the facilities rules when using climbing equipment.
- Specialist and/or bespoke climbing wall equipment is used safely. Is aware of facility guidance to ensure appropriate use.
- Aware of the condition of climbing wall equipment when using facilities. Is aware of who to inform if they have cause for concern.
Outstanding
- Aware of facility rules and how they might differ across the UK and Ireland. Understands 3rd party involvement to set standards and provide further guidance e.g. ABC.
- Adheres to facility rules when using climbing wall equipment and aware when bespoke elements might demand further training.
- Shows a deep understanding to evaluate the condition of common climbing wall equipment in a wide range of facilities.
2.1 Select suitable, sound anchors in a variety of situations.
Weak
- The majority of anchors chosen are not the best available in the situation.
- Anchors chosen will likely fail when loaded due to positioning, directional load or rock quality, for example.
- Safety concerns necessitate course staff intervening before use.
- Anchor selection takes excessive time. Uses an excessive number of anchors with little consideration to their necessity.
Min. Standard
- The majority of anchors chosen are the best available in the situation.
- Safe anchors are consistently selected, to include a variety of passive, active and in-situ protection, in varied environments.
- Anchor selection does not take excessive time. Uses an appropriate number of anchors to suit the situation.
Outstanding
- Anchors chosen are the best available in the situation.
- Safe anchors are carefully selected in a highly efficient manner to include a variety of passive, active and in-situ protection, in varied environments.
2.2 Set up single and multiple anchors for a belay and attach themselves securely.
Weak
- Is unable to safely and efficiently set up single and multiple anchors for a belay and attach themselves securely.
- Belay construction takes excessive time or is unduly complex.
Min. Standard
- Safely and efficiently sets up single and multiple anchors for a belay and attach themselves securely.
- The majority of belay systems used are simple, avoiding unnecessary connections and equipment use.
- Belay construction does not take excessive time.
Outstanding
- Single and multiple anchor belays are consistently constructed simply, safely and efficiently in a range of environments.
3.1 Tie into the rope. Attach group members to the rope.
Weak
- Unable to consistently tie themselves or participants to the rope safely.
- Unable to recognise and correct errors if they occur.
- Does not introduce nor endorse a buddy check system.
Min. Standard
- Consistently ties themselves and participants to the rope safely and efficiency. Chooses an appropriate knot to do so. Knots are well dressed.
- Checks for errors and corrects them before climbing.
- Introduces and endorses a buddy check system.
Outstanding
- Ties themselves and participants into the rope safely and efficiently in differing ways. Able to explain why they would choose one strategy over another in varied situations.
- Endorses and participates in ‘buddy checks’ with participants throughout.
3.2 Demonstrate the use of indirect and direct belay systems and choose the most appropriate for a given situation.
Weak
- Unable to construct and/or use direct and indirect belay systems applicable to the situation.
- Unable to explain why one strategy might suit over another.
Min. Standard
- Constructs and uses direct and indirect belay systems applicable to the situation.
- Clearly explains why one strategy would suit over another.
Outstanding
- Direct and indirect belays are constructed and used safely and efficiently in a range of situations.
- Constantly varies the approach according to the situation.
3.3 Set up top/bottom-rope systems and choose the most appropriate for a given situation.
Weak
- Unable to set up top and bottom rope systems safely and efficiently.
- Unable to explain why one would choose one over the other, for a given situation.
- System construction takes excessive time.
Min. Standard
- Sets up top and bottom rope systems safely and efficiently.
- Explains why one would choose one system over the other in the situation.
- System construction does not take excessive time.
Outstanding
- Top and bottom ropes systems are consistently constructed simply, safely and efficiently in a range of environments.
- Able to explain why one would choose one system over the other for a range of participants, activities and situations.
3.4 Demonstrate the skills of a competent belayer including holding falls and controlling lowers.
Weak
- Unable to belay effectively and safely using a common manual and assisted braking device of their choosing.
- Unable to hold falls and control lowers safely using both top and bottom rope systems using the chosen device.
Min. Standard
- Belays effectively and safely using a common manual and assisted braking device of their choosing.
- Hold falls and control lowers safely using both top and bottom rope systems using the chosen device.
- Aware of a range of current manual and assisted braking devices and their use. Able to access reliable sources of information to ensure safe practice belaying for differing devices.
Outstanding
- Belays, holds falls and controls lowers effectively and safely using a range of common manual and assisted braking devices.
- Recognises the limitations of each and able to mitigate against misuse.
3.5 Supervise others belaying.
Weak
- Unable to safely supervise participants belaying using top and bottom rope systems with a manual and assisted braking device of their choosing.
- Unable or chooses not to ‘tail’ the rope. Unaware of its importance.
Min. Standard
- Safely supervises participants belaying using top and bottom rope systems with a manual and assisted braking device of their choosing.
- Safely and effectively ‘tails’ the rope. Aware of its importance.
- Aware of the rest of the group and external influences whilst doing so.
Outstanding
- Able to safely supervise participants belaying using top and bottom rope systems using a range of manual and assisted braking devices.
- Able to manage >1 rope whilst doing so.
- Interacts in a subtle but effective manner to ensure safety.
3.6 Attach self and others to the belay system and abseil ropes.
Weak
- Unable to attach self to the belay system chosen and abseil ropes in a safe and effective manner. Unsafe positioning whilst doing so.
- Method chosen is ‘untidy’, prone to unnecessary dynamic loading and/or potential failure.
Min. Standard
- Attaches themselves to the belay system chosen and abseil ropes in a safe and effective manner. Safe positioning whilst doing so.
- Method chosen is ‘tidy’, reduces the chance of dynamic loading and not prone to failure.
Outstanding
- Methods to attach self and others to belay systems and abseil ropes used are consistently the most applicable to the situation.
- Aware of and able to safely use, varied attachment strategies.
4.1 Choose and lead single pitch, Severe grade and F4, rock climbs in a safe, competent and assured manner whilst demonstrating good technique.
Weak
- Unable to safely lead the min. grades required.
- Inefficient, jerky, and uncoordinated movement when leading.
- Unable to find restful positions to consider route finding, place equipment or clip quickdraws, for example.
- Poorly considered, erratic and/or unsafe technical actions when leading.
- Little capacity to give attention to the broader situation and environment when leading.
Min. Standard
- Safely leads the min. grades required.
- Efficient, fluid and coordinated movement throughout when leading.
- Finds restful positions when leading.
- Well considered, deliberate and safe technical actions throughout when leading.
- Capacity to give attention to the broader situation and environment when leading.
Outstanding
- Demonstrates a mastery leading the min. grades required.
- Leads safely, competently and in an assured manner on differing rock types and in varied environments and conditions.
- Technical actions have minimal errors when leading.
- Responds to the broader situation and/or environment as the situation demands when leading.
4.2 Demonstrate the skills of a competent second.
Weak
- Unsafe and/or ineffective lead belaying.
- Inappropriate positioning when belaying.
- Lacks awareness of leader’s needs showing poor communication.
- Inability to mitigate against common leading problems before they occur.
- Unaware of how to hold a leader fall.
- Unable to remove equipment in ascent.
Min. Standard
- Safe and effective lead belaying using a device of their choice.
- Appropriate positioning throughout.
- Shows awareness of leader’s needs with effective communication throughout.
- Mitigates against common leading problems before they occur.
- Aware of how to hold a leader fall. Note; The action of holding a leader fall is not required on assessment.
- Efficiently removes equipment in ascent.
Outstanding
- Safe and efficient use of varied common braking devices to belay leaders.
- Acutely aware and reacts immediately to support the leader avoiding problems before they occur.
- Uses knowledge and personal experience to describe and explain good behaviours in the event of a leader fall during trad and sport climbing activities.
4.3 Interpret guidebooks effectively.
Weak
- Unaware of varied sources of information for rock climbers.
- Unable to use a guidebook to find an unfamiliar venue and/or climb.
- Unable to interpret information presented to support climbing activity.
Min. Standard
- Aware of various sources of information for rock climbers in hard copy and digital form.
- Uses guidebooks efficiently to find unfamiliar venues and climbs.
- Interprets information presented to support climbing activities inc. using images and topos, written descriptions using common climbing terminology.
Outstanding
- Comprehensive awareness and effective use of a wide variety of information both in hard copy and online.
- Explains the ethos and purpose of differing sources of information and the pros and cons of each.
4.4 Demonstrate a basic understanding of the safety chain and fall factors.
Weak
- Lacks any understanding of the safety chain and fall factors and its relevance to climbers.
Min. Standard
- Has a basic understanding of the safety chain and fall factors and its relevance to climbers.
Outstanding
- Comprehensive, informed understanding of the safety chain and fall factors and its relevance to climbers.
5.1 Abseil without requiring a back-up safety rope.
Weak
- Abseil system is inappropriately positioned and/or unsafe.
- Descends the rope in an uncontrolled or unsafe manner.
- Does not use a secondary method effectively to ensure personal safety.
- Is unable to temporarily ensure safety whilst undertaking a task mid-descent.
Min. Standard
- Abseil system is appropriately positioned and safe.
- Descends the rope safely and smoothly in a controlled manner.
- Uses a secondary method effectively to ensure personal safety.
- Uses additional appropriate methods to temporarily ensure safety whilst undertaking tasks.
Outstanding
- Demonstrates a comprehensive understanding of differing attachment strategies and the pros and cons for each. This may include cows tail and lanyard use.
5.2 Demonstrate methods of safeguarding a novice abseiling.
Weak
- Unable to safely and effectively safeguard a novice abseiling using a releasable system.
- This might include; inappropriate take off point, poor participant management at height, slack safety rope, poor communication and poor problem avoidance and solution.
Min. Standard
- Safely and effectively safeguards a novice abseiling using a releasable system.
- Manages a safely rope well to ensure safety.
Outstanding
- Able to manage a range of participants abseiling. This might include varying communication and approach to suit their needs.
- Has the ability to focus on participant needs rather than technical elements.
5.3 Use common devices for abseiling competently and choose the most appropriate for a given situation.
Weak
- Chooses inappropriate equipment and/or uses equipment unsafely to abseil.
Min. Standard
- Chooses appropriate equipment and uses it safely to abseil.
Outstanding
- Aware of varied manual, assisted braking and purpose built devices suitable for abseiling and the pros and cons of each.
6.1 Demonstrate an awareness of the history, traditions and ethics of climbing in the UK and Ireland.
6.2 Explain the role and philosophy of Mountain Training and its qualifications, the mountaineering councils, climbing clubs and NICAS.
6.3 Describe the grading systems used in the UK and Ireland.
Weak
- Lacks awareness, understanding or interest in the history of climbing in the UK and Ireland and role of Mountain Training and relevant bodies.
- Does not understand common grading systems used in the UK and Ireland.
Min. Standard
- Has broad understanding and interest in the history of climbing in the UK and Ireland. Can list key historical events and developments and offer basic details of their significance.
- Understands and can broadly explain the role and philosophy of Mountain Training and relevant bodies. In doing so can give examples of recent developments and their significance.
- Understands and can explain trad, sport and climbing wall grading systems used in the UK and Ireland.
Outstanding
- Has a deep understanding and enthusiastic interest in the history of climbing in the UK and Ireland. Can outline a chronology of key events and developments in the history of the sport and offer details of each.
- Understands the role and philosophy of Mountain Training, it’s pathways and how it works collaboratively with other bodies to support safe participation.
- Understands and can apply and explain grading systems to trad, sport and climbing wall environments.
7.1 Explain their general responsibilities to the group and, where appropriate, to parents/guardians, the organising authority, committee or manager of the activity, facility users, environmental agencies, local residents, landowners and the general public.
Weak
- Cannot explain the position of responsibility leaders have with the group and third parties.
Min. Standard
- Recognises and can explain the responsibilities leaders have with the group and third parties.
Outstanding
- Recognises and can explain the responsibilities leaders, the group and third parties have, their similarities and differences, and how they interconnect to ensure safe activity.
7.2 Explain their specific responsibilities to choose appropriate aims and objectives, to complete detailed preparations and ensure that the group is adequately equipped and briefed for the activity.
Weak
- Shows a dismissive or cavalier attitude when planning, briefing and delivering activities.
- Is unable to undertake risk assessments for activities.
Min. Standard
- Shows a diligent attitude and considered approach when planning, briefing and delivering activities.
- Assesses risk both quantitatively and qualitatively to ensure safe activity.
Outstanding
- Shows a precise attitude and meticulous approach when planning, briefing and delivering activities.
- Shows a well-considered, realistic approach to risk assessment. Mitigates against a range of hazards.
7.3 Demonstrate an understanding of current legislation and the legal responsibilities that relate to the care of groups under their charge, including safeguarding issues specific to supervising young people and vulnerable adults.
Weak
- Has a very limited understanding of current legislation and related responsibilities as a leader.
- Does not know where to source reliable information if unsure.
Min. Standard
- Shows a basic understanding of relevant legislation and related responsibilities as a leader.
- Knows where to source reliable information if unsure.
Outstanding
- Has a comprehensive understanding of relevant legislation and related responsibilities as a leader.
7.4 Demonstrate an awareness of the variety of barriers to participation, including mental and physical disability, ethnicity, fitness/health and be aware of the impact of various medical conditions.
Weak
- Does not show an appreciation, understanding and/or desire to overcome various, common barriers to participation participants may have.
Min. Standard
- Has an empathetic and positive attitude towards overcoming barriers to participation.
- Has a basic understanding of common barriers and, where uncertain, where to access reliable sources of information.
Outstanding
- Has a ‘can do’ attitude towards overcoming barriers to participation.
- Shows a comprehensive understanding of common barriers and variations of each.
7.5 Describe how to access national guidance on instructor responsibilities and good practice.
Weak
- Unaware of Mountain Training’s National Guidance and/or the context of its use.
Min. Standard
- Aware of Mountain Training’s National Guidance and the context of its use.
Outstanding
- Recognises the strengths and weaknesses of unregulated activity, methods to demonstrate competence and appropriate applications of each.
7.6 Be able to evaluate the experience and signpost towards further participation.
Weak
- Unable to evaluate experiences and/or suggest appropriate ways to support further participation.
Min. Standard
- Able to reflect on their own experiences and the experiences of the group. Highlights opportunities to support participation for the group as a whole.
Outstanding
- Able to reflect on their own experience and the experiences of the group. Highlights opportunities to support participation for each group member.
Situational
Weak
- Ineffective monitoring of the group.
- Shows limited situational awareness and how to adapt their approach.
- Recognises the importance of adapting but unable to effectively do so.
- Shows little awareness of the interaction between the needs of the group, environmental conditions and chosen activity.
- Allows very limited group interaction.
- Uncertain and/or unconfident in their approach to achieve appropriate positive outcomes.
- Has a reasoned approach but cannot articulate it to the group.
Min. Standard
- Monitors the group as a whole with periodic attention to the individual participant needs.
- Shows good situational awareness. Reacts well to safety and task requirements.
- Creates a comfortable learning environment for all.
- Supports group interaction and participation.
- Confident in their approach to achieve appropriate positive outcomes.
- Explains the importance and context of the task to the group. Provides clear explanations.
Outstanding
- Monitors group members and reacts instinctively to their individual physical and mental needs.
- Shows excellent situational awareness. Ensures activities and the environment are constantly adjusted to maximise safe and enjoyable participation.
- Creates and maintains a comfortable learning environment throughout.
- Ensures all the group members are engaged and able to participate throughout.
- Confident and assured in their chosen approach to achieve positive outcomes and can explain why they have chosen one approach over others.
- Ensures participants are well informed and individually ‘buy in’ to decisions made.
Vision
Weak
- Does not provide a positive and relatable role model participants seek to aspire to.
- Is unable to articulate clear positive values to their group.
- Poorly engaged and uninspiring in delivery.
- Does not promote inclusive activity.
Min. Standard
- Provides a positive and relatable role model participants could seek to aspire to when engaged in activities.
- Articulates clear values when introducing the session, akin to Mountain Training’s own.
- Engaging and inspiring when delivering to the group.
- Promotes inclusive activity at all times.
Outstanding
- Provides an exceptional role model, relatable to all in attendance to aspire to.
- Remains true to their values, akin to Mountain Training’s own, throughout delivery and modifies their approach accordingly.
- Subtly influences participant interactions to collectively ensure inclusivity.
Support
Weak
- Shows little empathy with participants and/or interest in how best to support them to achieve positive outcomes.
- Communicates with the group ineffectively; Participants are disengaged, uninterested or offended.
- Does not modify their approach to cater for individual needs, differences, strengths and abilities.
- Forces participation or uses negative and/or condescending language to influence performance.
- Reacts erratically or aggressively in stressful situations or when challenged by the group.
- Instructs in a directive fashion, facilitating few independent learning opportunities.
- Mistakes are commonly labelled ‘errors’ and handled in a negative, condescending manner.
Min. Standard
- ‘Listens well’ showing empathy and understanding of individual needs to achieve positive outcomes.
- Communicates with the group well; Participants are engaged and enthused. Treats all participants with respect.
- Modifies their approach to cater for individual needs, differences, strengths and abilities.
- Uses praise to positively influence performance. Provides timely feedback to individuals during tasks.
- Reacts calmly and reassuringly in stressful situations.
- Instruction is well balanced facilitating some independent learning opportunities.
- Mistakes are handled in a positive, non-condescending manner.
Outstanding
- ‘Reads’ participants well, showing genuine empathy and successfully ‘connects’ with all in attendance to achieve positive outcomes.
- Able to adjust their communication style and demeanour to a range of participants. Uses humour appropriately to engage in a positive way.
- Uses non-verbal communication effectively to positively influence performance.
- Differentiates their approach to effectively engage with and inspire, all individuals in attendance. Holds the attention of all concerned throughout.
- Evidences praise given with tangible examples which participants are able to relate to.
- Independent learning opportunities are facilitated throughout and tailored to the individuals concerned.
- Mistakes are celebrated as learning opportunities throughout.
Challenge
Weak
- Does not engage with the group members when goal setting.
- Goals set are instructor focussed or predetermined with little relation to the abilities and motivations of those present.
- Goals set are unattainable or do not stretch those present.
- Challenge is presented negatively.
Min. Standard
- Engages with the group to set realistic and achievable goals.
- Goals are centred on the needs of the participants, taking into account their abilities and motivations, to safely engage in the activity.
- Goals set are measurable, achievable and extend those concerned.
- Challenge is presented as an enjoyable opportunity to extend oneself.
Outstanding
- Engages with each individual in a relatable manner to set appropriate goals.
- Supports each individual taking ownership over their own goals. Remains aware of and supports each individual to achieve these.
- Goals set aim to extend learning and motivate participants towards longer term participation.
- Challenge is presented as an opportunity to extend oneself and actively support others doing so.
9.1 Deliver technical instruction to individuals and the group including:
9.1.1 Choice and fitting of suitable harnesses.
9.1.2 Attaching the rope to the harness.
9.1.3 Effective belaying.
9.1.4 Abseiling.
Weak
- Gives incorrect or unsafe technical instruction.
- Instructs safely but in an inappropriate, illogical or inefficient manner.
- Misses participant errors if they occur.
Min. Standard
- Gives clear, safe technical instruction aligned to manufacturer's approved use of equipment.
- Gives consideration to facility ‘rules’ when using climbing facilities.
- Recognises participant errors and corrects them.
Outstanding
- Has multiple strategies to give technical instruction to a range of participants in a range of environments. Able to choose one appropriate to the situation.
- Clearly explains why the chosen strategy suits the situation and environment.
9.2 Demonstrate the use of bouldering activities with groups, using appropriate games and activities, including setting simple boulder problems.
Weak
- Boulder activities are instructed in an unsafe, uninspiring or inactive manner.
- Bouldering problems set are inappropriate for participants due to safety issues, lack of purpose or level of challenge.
Min. Standard
- Bouldering activities are appropriate for the group as a whole; safe, inspiring and maximise participation.
- Boulder problems set are safe, have purpose and are appropriately challenging.
Outstanding
- Bouldering activities and problems cater for the individual needs of all participants.
- Activities chosen are progressive, support short term development and safe enjoyment of other climbing activity.
9.3 Teach and demonstrate fundamental climbing movement skills.
Weak
- Activity is largely unstructured and offers limited input to develop fundamental movement skills.
- Unable to demonstrate fundamental movement skills when engaged in activities.
Min. Standard
- Fundamental movement skills are taught to the group as a whole with an emphasis on agility, balance and coordination, to support the safe enjoyment of climbing activities.
- Demonstrations are effective in demonstrating agility, balance and coordination.
Outstanding
- Has multiple strategies to teach fundamental climbing movement skills to a range of participants in a range of environments.
- Delivery supports short-to-medium term development of all participants.
- Demonstrations are immaculate in demonstrating agility, balance and coordination.
9.4 Supervise a group of novice climbers in the following activities:
9.4.1 Belaying and tying-in
9.4.2 Climbing
9.4.3 Bouldering
9.4.4 Abseiling
Weak
- Session delivery is unsafe and/or uninspiring supervising novice climbers.
- Delivery is unnecessarily static or over controlled meaning not all participants are engaged in the climbing activity.
Min. Standard
- Session delivery is safe and fun.
- All participants are engaged whether directly involved in climbing activity or not.
Outstanding
- Session delivery is inspiring, engaging and fun.
- Activities are progressive and allow all present to develop their skills irrespective of their ability.
10.1 Choose appropriate venues, activities and routes for group use considering:
10.1.1 Suitability of approach/descent
10.1.2 Terrain at the base of the crag
10.1.3 Objective dangers
Weak
- Unaware of what constitutes appropriate venues, activities and routes for groups.
- Chooses inappropriate venues and/or routes when tasked.
- Requires significant intervention to make good, safe choices.
Min. Standard
- Aware of what constitutes appropriate venues, activities and routes for groups, and can explain why.
- Chooses appropriate areas and routes when tasked. Explains these choices well.
Outstanding
- Makes sophisticated choices regarding venues and routes perhaps with consideration to the following:
- Rock type and nature.
- Variety, grade and style of routes available.
- Abundance, reliability and complexity of anchors.
- Potential for ground-based activity inc. bouldering.
- Exposure to changes in environmental conditions.
- Suitability for establishing top and bottom ropes.
10.2 Describe the hazards presented to other site users by the actions of a group and acts to minimise these.
Weak
- Unaware of how and why other site users may be negatively impacted upon by group climbing activities and strategies to minimise.
Min. Standard
- Aware of how and why other site users may be negatively impacted upon by group climbing activities. Minimises impacts during activities where possible.
Outstanding
- Shows empathy and understanding of all site users throughout all climbing activities.
- Pre-emptively minimises impact where possible during activities. Reacts instinctively during activities to reduce impacts if they occur.
10.3 Demonstrate an understanding of warming up and injury avoidance techniques.
Weak
- Is unaware of the need to warm up to prevent injury.
- Does not undertake appropriate warm up tasks with participants.
Min. Standard
- Warms up participants and themselves in a progressive and effective manner before climbing activity.
- Can explain the importance and value of doing so.
Outstanding
- Has a repertoire of differing warm up activities suited to a range of participants, activities and environments and chooses one appropriately relative to the task given.
10.4 Avoid common roped climbing problems.
Weak
- Struggles to foresee common roped problems before they occur. Common problems ‘which occur’ appear unduly intimidating.
- Largely unaware of the importance of ‘heading off’ common problems before they occur.
Min. Standard
- Good awareness of participants and environment mean common problems are largely foreseen before they occur.
- Explains how they might avoid common problems in a range of situations.
Outstanding
- Acute awareness of participants and environment and well conducted activity mean common problems are very unlikely to occur.
10.5 Solve common problems if they occur.
Weak
- Unable to solve common problems in a safe and efficient manner.
- Complex, time consuming solutions are chosen where simple solutions would suffice.
- Equipment is misused when solving common problems.
Min. Standard
- Solves common problems safely and effectively, mindful of the whole group.
- Simple solutions are chosen in preference.
- Equipment is safely used in accordance with manufacturer's guidance.
- Can articulate how they would stabilise the situation until help (if required) arrives.
Outstanding
- Solves problems safely and in a highly efficient manner.
- Has multiple strategies in mind to solve common problems and is able to choose the most appropriate to the situation.
10.6 In the case of an incident describe how to call for relevant assistance.
Weak
- Has little knowledge of how to call for assistance, who to direct correspondence to and what incident detail would be required.
Min. Standard
- Demonstrates a good understanding of how help can be obtained in rock climbing and climbing wall environments.
- Understands Mountain Rescue might not always be available in rock climbing environments and how this will impact on how the situation is handled.
- Can explain how they would call for assistance and clearly outline what incident detail would be required.
Outstanding
- Shows a comprehensive understanding of how help can be obtained across the UK and Ireland.
- Understands the limitations of differing emergency services and their needs.
- Can explain the pros and cons of differing communication strategies to call for help.
- Has a logical and methodical approach to call for help.
11.1 Demonstrate appropriate methods of protecting themselves while operating at height during all activities.
Weak
- Shows a disregard for personal safety acting in a cavalier, unsafe manner at height.
- Is unaware of the environment and conditions and how they may necessitate differing approaches.
- Is unaware of appropriate methods to protect themselves at height and how to choose one over another.
- Uses climbing equipment inappropriately to ensure personal safety.
Min. Standard
- Maintains an appropriate level of personal safety throughout all climbing activities.
- Reacts instinctively to changing conditions alternating methods to ensure personal safety.
- Where specialist equipment is used, uses it safely, effectively and aligned to the manufacturer’s approved use.
Outstanding
- Shows a sophisticated understanding of multiple methods to ensure safety and the pros and cons of each.
- Is aware of the technical limitations of specialist equipment used.
- Where improvising/on the fringe of manufacturer’s approved use, can adequately explain why it’s use is technically appropriate in the context.
12.1 Explain the role and scope of an assistant. Describe the opportunities and liabilities presented by using an assistant in a session.
Weak
- Unaware of the responsibility and liability instructors hold for assistants and their interactions with the group.
- Is unaware of potential roles assistants might have to maximise climbing experiences for participants. Unaware of the limits of each.
Min. Standard
- Is aware of the responsibility and liability of running climbing activities with assistants and can clearly explain them.
- Aware of various roles assistants might have to maximise climbing experiences for participants and the limits to which they can contribute.
Outstanding
- Acutely aware of the legal situation when using assistants.
- Recognises the nature and experience of assistants has a significant impact on what they can and can’t contribute to the session and is able to use this awareness to maximise their use.
12.2 Manage an assistant.
Weak
- Is unable to brief and subsequently manage an assistant to support the safe enjoyment of appropriate climbing activities.
- Does not maintain communication and control when managing an assistant.
Min. Standard
- Briefs and subsequently manage an assistant to support the safe enjoyment of appropriate climbing activities.
- Maintains positive, supportive communication and effective control when managing an assistant.
Outstanding
- Acts as an inspirational role model to assistants and can support their own development.
- Recognises the value of specialist assistants supporting participants with particular needs. Knowledges the limits to their involvement without further training.
13.1 Demonstrate an ability to adapt the teaching style to meet group needs.
Weak
- Is unappreciative of group learning needs and/or unaware of key weaknesses in performance.
- Aware of group learning needs but unable to adapt teaching approach.
- Unaware of how to structure effective teaching through varied approaches.
- Is unduly authoritarian, repeats direction or ‘waffles’ for example, without consideration to how information is being received.
Min. Standard
- Identifies group learning needs, checks understanding, and addresses weaknesses in performance in a positive manner.
- Chooses approaches suited to the group as a whole.
- Clear and concise in delivery. Uses appropriate language, tone, volume, body language and positioning.
- Demonstrations support learning.
Outstanding
- Acute awareness of individual participant’s learning needs.
- Can identify broad and subtle weaknesses in performance and intervene appropriately to collaboratively address these in a positive and inspirational manner.
- Able to select and use multiple approaches to develop learning tailored in the individual needs of a wide variety of participants.
- Facilitates valuable peer to peer activity.
- Able to recognise and communicate learning has been achieved in a relatable way.
13.2 Identify and use appropriate tasks to develop safe group activity.
Weak
- Task-centred with little consideration to the group’s needs.
- Introduces the task but is unable to facilitate learning.
- Environment chosen is unsafe and/or un-conducive to participant learning.
- Tasks chosen do not develop participant performance.
- Can identify appropriate tasks but is unable to safely implement them.
- Little opportunity for practice.
Min. Standard
- Selects and calibrates activity to the needs and abilities of the group.
- Environment chosen/created is safe and conducive to learning.
- Tasks chosen are appropriate to develop the group as a whole. Tasks set are fun and engaging.
- Tasks set give ample opportunity to practice.
Outstanding
- Individual-focused activities.
- Develops tasks to support individualised learning. Participants are mentally and practically engaged throughout.
- The environment chosen is versatile and allows differentiation, catering to individual participant needs.
- Has a repertoire of practical strategies to cater for all participant learning needs. Tasks are fun, engaging and progressive.
- Tasks include highly varied practice.
13.3 Demonstrate an understanding of the reasons for evaluating a session and success of the outcome.
Weak
- Does not engage with or understand the value of task review.
- Lacks any questioning or review when completing group tasks.
Min. Standard
- Understands the importance of review to support participant learning.
- Reviews tasks and sessions as a group in an interactive and positive way.
- Reviews their own performance and identify strengths and weaknesses of the session.
Outstanding
- Conducts critical analysis and careful observation to inform review.
- Reviews are individual-centred. Creates specific opportunities to further learning.
- Reviews foster and support independent and autonomous learning.
14.1 Source current access information and act accordingly.
Weak
- Little or no awareness of different sources of access information.
- Does not understand the types of agreements in place and their importance.
- Unable to use access information to inform decision-making.
Min. Standard
- Has a good understanding of different sources of access information.
- Accesses current, applicable information from a reliable source.
- Has a reasonable understanding of various agreements which might be in place.
- Understands how these agreements will impact on the planning and undertaking of rock climbing activities.
Outstanding
- Shows an in-depth, comprehensive understanding of differing sources of access information.
- Able to choose applicable information with reference to origin, reliability and currency.
- Understands the origin and importance of differing agreements to various users and groups.
- Can plan and deliver climbing activities with consideration to access information. Acts positively promoting good practice to others in this regard.
15.1 Have a basic working knowledge of the rock climbing environment including geology and natural history.
Weak
- Shows little or no knowledge and understanding of common rock types in rock climbing environments. Unable to give examples.
- Unable to name or identify any common plants or animals and how they are adapted to live in the environment.
- Shows little or no understanding of common land use in the rock climbing environment and how it has evolved.
Min. Standard
- Shows basic knowledge and understanding of common rock types found in rock climbing environments but does not fully understand the processes by which they are formed. Able to give a few examples of rock climbing environments where different rock types are present.
- Identifies some common plants and animals in rock climbing environments and describe how they are adapted to live in the environment.
- Has a basic understanding of common land use in the rock climbing environment and the potential conflict between users.
Outstanding
- Has a significant depth of knowledge of rock types, able to give examples where these are found around the UK and has a deep understanding of the processes by which they were formed.
- Identifies many common plants and animals found in rock climbing environments and able to describe how they coexist and are adapted to survive in the environment.
- Has a comprehensive understanding of differing land uses in the rock climbing environment, potential conflicts which may arise and how to mitigate against them.
15.2 Operate in such a way as to minimise impact on the environment.
Weak
- Unaware of the fragility of the rock climbing environment and the potential broader impact climbers may have.
- Shows little or no appreciation of the potential rock climbers’ impact to habitats and ecosystems or the needs of other users of rock climbing environments.
- Shows poor role modelling to others and has little or no strategies to minimise impact.
Min. Standard
- Aware of the fragility of the rock climbing environment and the potential broader impact climbers may have.
- Has a reasonable understanding of how rock climbing activities may impact habitats and ecosystems in the environment and can give examples of each.
- Understands and can explain the needs of other users of rock climbing environments.
- Is an excellent role model to others and has some strategies to minimise impact.
Outstanding
- Has detailed understanding of how rock climbing activities impact habitats and ecosystems and can give multiple evidenced examples of each.
- Uses various strategies to minimise impact in the rock climbing environment appropriate to differing groups.
- Understands, can explain and give examples of various initiatives to minimise impact in the rock climbing environment.
15.3 Pass on basic environmental knowledge in an appropriate and engaging way to educate and enthuse.
Weak
- Unable to convey their interest and enthusiasm for the rock climbing environment.
- Unimaginative and lacks enthusiasm when passing basic environmental knowledge to others.
Min. Standard
- Enthusiastically engages with others about the rock climbing environment.
- Passes on basic knowledge to others in an enthused and inspiring way stimulating those concerned to learn more themselves.
Outstanding
- Able to engage with a variety of groups about a range of rock climbing environment related topics.
- Demonstrates infectious enthusiasm, inspiring to all, holding the audience throughout.
- Kindles a strong interest in others and supports their long term learning.
15.4 Manage groups so that they have minimal impact and leave the crags in an improved condition where possible.
Weak
- Does not recognise their responsibility to minimise impact as an instructor.
- Unable to identify any impacts rock climbers have on the environment.
- Unaware of the importance of leaving no trace.
Min. Standard
- Embraces and can explain their responsibilities to minimise impacts as an instructor.
- Can identify a range of potential rock climbing impacts to the natural environment and local communities.
- Describes, explains and demonstrates a range of group management strategies to minimise impact.
Outstanding
- Has a clear understanding of their role as an instructor to minimise impact and how not embracing this responsibility might affect future access.
- Understands and can explain a diverse range of potential rock climbing impacts. Uses examples across the UK.
- Able to use a range of group management strategies to reduce impact to the natural environment and local communities.
16.1 Describe local rock climbing ethics related to single pitch crags.
Weak
- Has little or no knowledge of differing ethics across different venues and regions.
Min. Standard
- Has good knowledge of differing ethics across different venues and regions. Can give examples of each and the reasoning behind them.
Outstanding
- Has a comprehensive knowledge of differing ethics across multiple climbing venues, UK wide, and uses examples to explain the reasoning behind them.
16.2 Operate a flexible programme of activities so as to accommodate other site or facility users.
Weak
- Has little or no awareness of the importance of the environment to other users and groups.
- Shows little or no appreciation of the responsibilities rock climbers have to other users and the wider climbing community.
- Conducts themselves in a poor manner which could compromise access to rock climbing environments in the future. Shows little consideration to the needs of others.
- Is unable to describe and explain what constitutes good practice when undertaking group activities.
Min. Standard
- Understands and can explain the importance of the environment to common users and groups.
- Understands and can explain their responsibilities as a rock climber to other users and the wider climbing community.
- Conducts themselves well and demonstrates sensitive and sustainable use of the environment with consideration to the needs of others.
- Can describe, explain and demonstrate good practice when undertaking rock climbing activities with groups.
Outstanding
- Has a comprehensive knowledge of the various uses of rock-climbing environments and can explain why differing needs might conflict.
- Can clearly explain their responsibilities as a rock climber to other users and the wider climbing community using various examples/case studies.
- Shows immaculate conduct in rock climbing environments and showcases good practice to groups.
- Enthuses and inspires others to act in a sympathetic and sustainable manner when rock climbing.
16.3 Describe the site-specific requirements and agreements relating to different crags, climbing walls and artificial structures.
Weak
- Does not plan or deliver rock climbing activities with consideration to established site-specific requirements or access agreements.
- Shows little awareness or understanding of the significance of compromising site-specific requirements or access agreements to themselves or others.
Min. Standard
- Plans and delivers climbing activities with consideration to site-specific requirements or established access agreements.
- Has a reasonable understanding of how not adhering to site-specific requirements or access agreements might result in negative outcomes.
Outstanding
- Can explain how access agreements are formed.
- Has a comprehensive understanding of the legal position with respect to access.
- Can explain the importance of adhering to site-specific requirements and access agreements in place and how not doing so has compromised access in the past using examples.




